Sunday, June 13, 2010

Selamat pagi from Surakarta

That means good morning!

Also hello from the future!

The future is very different....

What an adjustment this past week has been. EVERYTHING is different here.

I hate to admit it, especially now that I have started adjusted but I was pretty miserable when I first got here.


Our jungle tour got cancelled within hours of arriving as it is very extreme traditional muslim and with the recent Israel attacks on Palestine it will be assumed that because I am white I will be in allegiance with Israel and be attacked. Im more or less okay with that. The least amount of attacking, the better. However it was exttremely disapointing. And then we were told that it is unsafe for women to travel alone in Java, too many muslims and the men will attack us. So it was decided that we would fly to Solo (or Surakarta) where Vicky's uncle lives, rather then take the train and mini bus down to Batu Karas, where we want to learn to surf. So I just felt as if already my whole trip was being usurped. And those of you that know me well, know I may have a tich of a problem with control issues...just a tich ;). So I was struggling.

Vicky reassured me that it was only day two and I still had many months and everyone is in agreement that Bali is safe for us to travel alone, so perhaps I will just plan on spending more time there. I was just looking forward to spending time with real Idonesians and well it turns out Im actually spending time Indonesians. Its just not what i imagined. I wanted to venture out on my own, make mistakes and have to problem solve.

Maybe this is another kind of learning though too. In essence a mistake has been made, in both my perspective and expectations and now I have to problem solve.

I guess I should have done Europe first, lol.

It was quite an experience in Jakarta. Vicky's family friend, Mrs Twjan, came and picked us up. Or rather she and her driver came and picked us up. It was very nice to be met at the airport and not needing to jump RIGHT in. Plus it was very much a treat to spend time with Mrs. Twjan and her daughters Cynthia and Emile. The company was great. Part of the treat is that here in Indonesia it is common to have drivers (for those that can afford it), housekeepers, nanny's etc. So pretty much I didn't have to lift a finger. It truly was like being on holiday!

Cynthia has two little boys, who were a little rambuctious but very sweet. Her eldest Kyle (who is five or six) taught me how to say hello in Indonesian, "hi" (lol) and one evening was giving out massages. When I asked him if he would please massage my neck he readily agreed and proceeded to massage both the front and back of my neck, which was more similar to being strangulated, but done in a very thoughtful way ;)

Cynthia took Vicky and I, and the boys to Taman Mini, which is like an outdoor museum and reminded me of pioneer village or something. They had all these houses that represented the different areas of Indonesia and the different cultures associated with those areas. We spent time in the Sumatra houses, and pretended we were there, as we won't get to go anymore (that was the jungle trek area). In the one house there was a lady there who was from that region and she walked around with us and spoke to us about each display. There were several traditional wedding outfits that she actually made! Each one took her two months to make, they looked like they should have taken a lifetime, so detailed and pretty! Unfortunately the same couldn't be said for her. Pretty much all of her teeth had rotted out and those that didn't were all black. It was unsettling, but she had a beuatiful soul and I am so thankful that she spent the time walking around with us, Especially since she didn't even ambush us at the end looking for money. Her only goal was to share her culture. Unlike the mascots. Vicky and I were outside taking pictures and a mascot came up and we said no but in mascot fashion it didn't listen and posed beside me so Vicky took a picture. Then another one came and then Vicky posed. And then another one came. And then we decided we were scared and said no more. THEN they followed us around pulling at the pocket out front asking for money!!!!! So awkward.



After walking around the houses we found a bird sanctuary and spent the rest of the afternoon there. It was neat to see the birds, they were in a cage that reminded me of a butterfly house thing - ya know? Most were just out flying around. There was a lot of greenery, and bugs as well. Here is hoping that Java really is low risk for Malaria. *crosses fingers* I got some great pictures, although I could not tell you what they are all called! Please don't ask!


The next day Cynthia came and picked Vicky and I up and the three of us headed to Kota, which is the area that the Dutch occupied when they colonized Indonesia. It was pretty run down, but had some real gems in it. Before entering into the square there is a canal that was filled with human feces, I guess only a small fraction of Jakarta has access to sewers...you gotta do what you gotta go I guess. The smell was unbearable. Mom, you'd be proud though - I only gagged a handful of times! We then got to the square and took many pictures and stubbled into a Wayan Musuem. Wayan is Indonesian puppets. It was so amazing. While we were there the founder/owner/manager - Daniel, saw us (or rather me - Whitey) and when he realized that for sure we were tourists he ended up giving us a big tour. He told us that his family had been making the puppets for 900 years, I think. He told us that the stick puppets are made from Vietnamese buffalo hide and horn. The middle part is the horn carved and shaped using steam and then the hide is cured and 36 different instruments are used to make the patterns that form the puppet. He was saying that it takes 40ish days to make one puppet. And the big complex puppet, the tree of life, his family can only make two of those a year. So it's pretty special stuff. The wooden puppets take 20 days and only 5 instruments are used. He also showed us puppets that were over 300 years old, and have never been retouched. They looked new. He stated it is because of the buffalo and 99% of the paint is natural from vegetables and such. It was really neat. So of course just before we end, in the gift shop of course, he starts telling us how he doesn't get any funding from the government and yadda yadda yadda. But I was sold hook line and sinker at this point and of course bought some little mini ones :) I bought Raman and Sinda, he is supposed to email me the story but they both have incredible wealth and talents but lead humble lives and thus are the ideal to strive for. It sounded good :) Vicky and I have decided we really want to see a puppet show before we leave. Daniel stated they start at about 7 pm and go until 5 am. And use hundreds of different puppets. I think it would be amazing. I felt very honoured to be given such a special tour and be provided with an opportunity to learn a small piece of Indonesian culture.


So know I am in Solo or Surakarta, which according to my travel book is one of Java's least westernized citys. Vicky's Uncle, whom we are staying with here, is adament that it is unsafe for us to travel alone. He also stated that we can't stay in Bali for $9 a night, he thinks the travel book is lying. He has also warned us that drug dealers have magic and can hypnotize us. Apparently when Vicky's mom was younger she disappeared for three days, because a drug dealer hypnotized her...sounds like a great excuse to run away for a weekend to me!

I dont know how much of the "its dangerous to travel alone is true" and how much is priveledge and how much is culture speaking. Vicky's family can't imagine why I would want to travel by train or by bus with the rest of the population when I could fly/have a driver. So its hard. I have greatly enjoyed my time with everybody so far and have really appreciated the perks such as built in translator, driver, etc. but I really do want to venture out on my own. Perhaps pack my bags and escape into the night? lol. Just kidding mom!

I am glad so far that we jumped on the rickety, bumpy, less then stellar safety record Lion Air and flew from Jakarta to Solo yesterday, and not only because I know have regular internet for awhile. But it sure will be nice to do a small posting ;) Today I we went zip linning! It was incredible. Mitchell and Michelle, you'd be impressed...the safety harness consisted of a nylon rope wrapped around my groin area...it resembled a safety harness once TIED (tied!!!!!) around my waist. I started to get scared at that point. Vicky and I went together. People laughed at us. Its okay though, we are alive.

On the way home...oh wait I need to start at the beginning.

We woke up this morning to a very noisy little yappy dog, a very unhappy hawk in a tiny tiny cage and a bird that speaks and can say Satay Bebe...which I think means BBQ. Definately not in Kansas anymore. We left the house at 8 and left in convoy (two cars), with Vicky's family. We stopped FIVE times before 11:30 for food. Thats all these people do. Eat eat eat. And of course its all mostly deep fried carbs. I miss vegetables. But five times. And they are shocked when Vicky and I reply no thank you we are still full from less then 30 minutes ago. Its pretty funny.

Okay...now back to our regularly scheduled program...

On the way home we stopped twice more for food. One of the places was a Catholic prayer garden. It was gorgeous. It was also here that I encountered for the first time the Indonesian toilet.

Dun dun dunnnnn
(evil music)


In the end, when you gotta go you gotta go. And really its not much different then squatting in the woods... right? Plus lets remember I am packing tissue and hand sanitzer. You can take the girl outta the West, but you can't take the West outta the girl ;) I'd like to think I handled it better then Vicky but I could be biased :)

I'm also learning quite a few words, and am starting to recognize them in signs and when people are talking. I get a lot of laughs still when I am trying to say something and definately still require many gestures and charades but I'm learning and it's fun.

Prologue (as this has turned into a novella)

I was struggling but since having done some touristy things outside of the mall and accepted that what will be will be I am really enjoying myself. I am so glad I took this opportunity. Actually at the Catholic prayer garden I closed my eyes for a little minute and thanked whoever it is out there that is watching over us for keeping me safe and letting me experience this.

I am so lucky.

And also determined. Every so often I remember that I made this happen and it seems so surreal. It is an incredible feeling!

Thank you everyone who has left me messages, Terama Kaci! And for those of you that haven't yet, c'mon!!

All my love,

Amy

PS Surprisingly I got into my first auto accident today. I am surprised because there are NO ROAD RULES. I wouldn't even go so far as to say the dotted lines are merely guidelines, it is as if they are simply decoration. PLUS they drive on the wrong side of the road...I guess it is an island. I didn't even think of that though before. The traffic is incredible, especially in Jakarta. That happens when you cram the population of Canada into a city though. Yikes. We just got slightly rear-ended tonight. It felt as if Uncle stalled the car and the rear exhaust is a lil dented but no big deal. I am just surprised it took this long! There is a lot of horn honking and light flashing. I haven't figured out what it all means. Sometimes it means stop, sometimes go ahead. I think the general rule is go slow, close your eyes and hope for the best! Scary!

5 comments:

Jordan said...

weird poopers.. and bad drivers.. sounds like my work place :)
Glad to hear that you are safe and having fun.

Parents said...

We also are glad you are safe and having fun and NOT heading out in the night with your bags packed! Wow, did you ever place that comment to 'mom' in the right place, I was ready to FREAK! I freaked too when I saw that bird on your shoulder, watch out, in an instant, he could peck out your eye! The zip line sounds fun but I can why you'd be a bit scared....any pics of that? Thinking of you everyday. We now have a SPECTAULAR kitchen table and chairs, new outdoor patio set and our two chairs have morphed into living room chairs! Love you, stay safe, ENJOY. Mom and Dad

Jessie said...

I love all the pictures you are sharing - your are an amyzing blogger already!

Kelly said...

Hi Amy,
I love reading about your adventures. Keep up the posting. It makes us feel that you are not so far away.

Love the bathroom shot of your face. Laughed pretty hard when I saw that.

And remember, it is not the wrong side of the road, but the opposite. I made a mistake once by saying that to a local and they said we drive on the wrong side.

take care and we love you. Keep having fun.

Love you

Anonymous said...

Amy I love that you have a great handle on where you expect to face challenges... just watch out for the ones you don't expect. they will teach you the most...
and I love that you share it all with us out here in real life.. I love being a voyer...